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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.